Perhaps  pre-heat the board with a heat gun,hair dryer or???
this would speed up the drying process.
Victor

----- Original Message Follows -----
> William Chops Westfield wrote:
> >
> > nitrocellulose is somewhat soluble in isopropyl alcohol.  Common
> > stuff, over here (think NC laquer rather than gunpowder.  Or "nail
> polish") >
> > Another possibility is some of the micro-fine powdered polyethylene
> > (again, used in the cosmetic industry.)  I probably wouldn't work
> > quite by itself, by you could probably put it in a water/alcohol
> > carrier and then bake it on to fuse it to the copper.  (rather
> > similar to laser printer toner in that respect.)   For that matter,
> > I wonder what's in those opaque-ink "gel" pens that are appearing
> > all over (these have a light-colored base that works on black paper,
> > but they're fluid enough to work in more-or-less standard ballpoint
> mechanisms...)
>
> Thanks BillW, good ideas. Really anything soluble
> in alcohol that dries to a waterproof layer should
> work, as a decent etch resist anyway. Making sure
> it prints well in a bubblejet head and doesn't gum
> up the head when not is use is a fraction harder.
>
> I tested some bubblejet ink on a few surfaces, one
> thing I did note is that it is VERY slow drying,
> and doesn't quite dry at all unless it soaks into
> paper which seems to dry it. I'm guessing this is to
> avoid drying in the head and gunging it up.
>
> I think that shellac might be usable, it is organic
> and non toxic, dissolves totally in alcohol and can
> be diluted to the right viscosity. I'll buy a
> paint viscosity measure and some bubblejet refil
> ink and get a viscosity reading unless someone has
> more accurate equipment. :o)
> -Roman
>
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