hello,

maybe some dril to cutter  info on:
 http://home.hccnet.nl/m.de.roode/cutters/body_cutters.html
 http://home.hccnet.nl/m.de.roode/drill2cutter/body_drill2cutter.html
no v shaped cutter example on the above page

i like the idea of direct buble printing on PCB
only problem i see is the inkt
converting the axis is no problem
just mangle the printer and let the bublejethead move in X&Y above the pcbboard

luberth
homebuild Qbasic plotter/engraver
http://www.luberth.com/plotter/plotter.htm






"Peter L. Peres" wrote:

> On Thu, 7 Nov 2002, Alan B. Pearce wrote:
>
> *>>The tooling (carbide bits) that these things use doesn't
> *>>last that long, and standard pricing is quite high (~$17
> *>>milling bits.  Each.)  There aren't a lot of second sources,
> *>>either (unlike drill bits.)  Grr.
> *>
> *>How are the tip of the bits shaped? If they are flat like a normal milling
> *>bit then this may be difficult, but if they are V shaped like a countersink
> *>bit I would be tempted to try a normal carbide tipped drill as a bit if a
> *>fine enough one was available. It may be necessary to grind the tip to a
> *>sharp point, but you may get away with it for a quick development board
> *>without doing this or using an expensive tip.
>
> Try a normal carbide drill and break it off about in the middle. Wear
> goggles. The end will be unbelievably sharp and work fine for milling
> phenolic and delrin. The shape is right (one long tooth one shorter and
> usually the middle is hollow or recessed due to the bit thickness and
> shape). I have used it with success in a pinch. The slight off center
> thrust and vibration turned out not to be problems (I used ~20k rpm). It
> can also drill through holes (not recommended with a normal router bit).
>
> Peter
>
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