Hi, I have used the 25A/45A 250V SSR's and they work well. They cost a bit, $20/25 for you ? The lower rating ones are possibly alot cheaper they come with 4 stud terminals .. you put 5V on the 2 input studs and it will switch the output for you across the 2 output studs( think of it as a switch, you use it in the same fashion). They are triacs, with opto-couplers, and therefor would not make an audible click on or off. Electrically, they are zero-crossing and thereby eliminating the associated turn on spike when switching on a voltage say mid cycle. There is also alot of talk about switching AC signals just past the zero-crossing point.. and i dont care to get involved with that issue :) If youre up to the task, a simple MOC3020 or similar ( zero-crossing or non zero-crossing version maybe) opto linked with 2 resistors to a BT 139 triac .. and bobs your uncle ... not quit the $25 cost of the SSR from opto 22 ... but then again .. it is nicely housed in a block of resin with heatsink, mounting holes and screw down tags.... just perfect for that York enclosure your going to put on the wall with the Pic etc ? ....... Regards John On Monday 12 August 2002 01:49 pm, you wrote: > To all that have replied: Thank you for your ideas. I had considered > "standard" relays, but I would like a "quieter" solution, I'm thinking of > the opto isolator, or the SSR from the company opto-22. > > Kevin B.: I too come from the same type of background - and am trying to > learn some of the intracacies of circuit design :) > > It looks like the MOC3011 would be a good device. I see in figure 8 the > Triac connected to the chip. do you happen to remember which one you used? > I would like to take a look into this option a bit more. > > John W.: Have you used these SSR's from opto-22 in the past? what kind of > cost are they? are they loud, quiet, what? Would I need to use a triac > with them, or would it be a complete solution? > > Thanks in advance! > > -Tony > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Kevin A. Benedict" > To: > Sent: Monday, August 12, 2002 12:50 AM > Subject: Re: [PIC] [EE]: Using DC to control AC. > > > Hi Tony, > > Try the data sheet for the MOC3011, I had a PIC controlling several > > 60 watt bulbs with an opto-isolator and triac. > > http://support.tandy.com/support_supplies/doc66/66249.pdf > > I believe figure 8 was the circuit I used. > > I am sure some of the EE's will chime in. > > I am a programmer not an EE :) > > > > Good luck, > > Kevin > > > > >hi, > > > > > >I'm trying to figure out how to use my PIC to control an AC voltage. > > > > > >For example: > > > > > >I have a fountain that las low voltage AC lights, and a set of low > > voltage > > > >AC pumps (say 3 lights and 3 pumps, all run off of 12V AC, max all three > > >lights and all three pumps would be on. The pumps are rated at 3.6A). > > > I want to create a program to turn on and off lights and the pumps at > > > my > > will. > > > >Obviously, my PIC circuit is a DC circuit. > > > > > >So, can anyone suggest what I might be able to do in order to control > > this > > > >AC voltage? I don't need to funnel a lot of power, 60 watts (actually > > 43.2, > > > >but increasing a bit for safety) per "switch". > > > > > >So, the AC side would be 12V AC, the DC would be 5V DC for the PIC and > > >either the LCD or perhaps LED's to indicate what is on and off. > > > > > >Any resources, sites, small samples would be most appreciated. > > > > > >-Tony > > > > -- > > http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different > > ways. See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details. -- Thank-you for your time. John Ward -- http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different ways. See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.