True -- a rough surface is a must.

The other trick with epoxy is not wanting it to
stick somewhere -- then it will stick there
and remain forever! :-)

Cheers,
-Neil.



> -----Original Message-----
> From: pic microcontroller discussion list
> [mailto:PICLIST@MITVMA.MIT.EDU]On Behalf Of Jinx
> Sent: Friday, August 09, 2002 8:06 PM
> To: PICLIST@MITVMA.MIT.EDU
> Subject: Re: [OT]: Leveling surface
>
>
> > 5-minute epoxy is usually more flexible than
> > "real" epoxy, so it may actually work.  But
> > I can see it being a nightmare to put on and
> > not make a mess of.
>
> The trick with epoxy is the bonding surfaces. Epoxy itself
> is tough but if it hasn't got a good grip or ingress into the
> surfaces then the overall bond is not strong. When I use
> it, especially on metal,  I mess up the surfaces with coarse
> grit sandpaper and/or a centrepunch and/or drill small holes
> to make epoxy "pegs" in the final bond. As you say though,
> tacky epoxy fingerprints means you need to keep the turps
> handy. Over time, vibration and thermal expansion of the
> metal gets the better of the epoxy's grip. It seems more
> appropriate, in my experience anyway, to use epoxy like
> solder, in that the bond is better if it's three-dimensional
> rather than surface only, and the epoxy to some extent or
> other surrounds parts in the joint. OTOH I've found contact
> adhesives are a pretty good for permanent surface bonds
> for a lot of materials that epoxy just won't stick to, especially
> plastics
>
> > Alternate solution -- take the case to one of
> > those paintless dent repair places and tell
> > them you have all those dents in the rectangle
> > that the sticker will go on.... :-)
>
> And while one guy's tapping out the dents there's another
> tapping his head, rolling his eyes and making "cuckoo"
> sounds in Josh's general direction
>
> --
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