I have an old Premier brand 12 inch paper cutter that's about 25 years old. I
have cut and trimmed thousands of boards and have never sharpened it. It will
still cut a single piece of paper too.
Rick

Jesse Lackey wrote:

> Humm, ok, now that there are 2 votes for the papercutter I will go to
> staples and get one.  I find it hard to belive a paper cutter can cut
> regular-grade pcb's (that fiberglass/epoxy stuff is tough) but I don't
> need to do anything in volume and it certainly is the cheapest (and
> least messy) route.  For $40 I'll give it a shot.
>
> I wonder if the blade can be sharpened?  Maybe with a kitchen knife
> sharpening file?
>
> The nibbler tool Roman mentioned also works, but it is laborious and
> hurts one's hands after 10 minutes of intensive nibblin.  But for
> non-rectangular shapes I can see it being the method of choice.  Chop
> with papercutter, form with nibbler.
>
>  > Brendan Morgan: Personally, I use a hacksaw and a vise for straight
>  > lines.  Just clamp the vise slightly below the line you're going to
>  > cut, and cut along the jaws of the vise, using them as a straight
>  > edge guide for the hacksaw blade.  I can
>
> Excellent idea.  Didn't think of using the vise as the guide.
>
>  > Chris Loiacono on tinning: 3. The level of humidity and contamination
>  >  in the local environment is directly proportional to the time it
>  > will take for the board to become fully ugly.
>
> Is there a mil-spec standard for "fully ugly" ?  :)  :)
> But I do appreciate the aesthetic sensibility.  Something that will be a
> "portfolio piece" should look great.  Something that will be in a clear
> enclosure (electronic art stuff) should look great.  I built and
> point-to-point hand soldered two 24-triac+LED midi controlled boards for
> an electroluminescent wire light display, and since I knew people were
> going to be looking at the board and watching the LEDs blink along with
> the EL wires I did the layout in a symmetric, elegant manner.  Looks do
> matter, sometimes.
>
> Nobody has commented on acrylic spray sealant.  Since I have some
> sitting around (bought it to seal the paint and stickers and glitter I
> put all over my cell phone) I'll give it a try.
>
> The piclist is such a fantastic resource.  Thanks everyone.
> Jesse
>
> Charles Craft wrote:
>  > After trying to cut boards with a Dremel (way too much dust) and a
>  > hacksaw (a fair amount of work), I finally tried the paper cutter
>  > route a few weeks ago. Works like a charm!
>  >
>  > (of course I used the paper cutter out of my wife's home office so
>  > we'll see how long that lasts) :-)
>  >
>  > later chuckc
>  >
>  >
>  >
>  > On Thu, 4 Jul 2002 08:11:33 -0400 "Rick C." <rixy@VVALLEY.COM> wrote:
>  >
>  >
>  >
>  > I still recommend the paper cutter. Will cut almost perfect edges.
>  > Brand new at Staples for $39.99.
>  > http://www.staples.com/Catalog/Browse/SKU.asp?BCFlag=False&PageType=1-
>  >  &SKU=108209
>  >
>  >
>  > I have bought them at yard sales for 5 bucks. Highly recommend going
>  > this route first.
>  >
>  > To get a factory edge, I use a table top combination belt sander/disc
>  >  sander. Brand new from Sears for $119.95, Harbor Freight $79.99,
>  > again buy used for about $20.
>  > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=5154
>  >
>  >
>  >
>  > A hand disc sander will work if you can hold the board steady too.
>  > Rick
>  >
>  > Jesse Lackey wrote:
>
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