Hi Tony, just use normal 80gsm copy paper!
My friend does it with copy paper, and a
clothing type iron. The trick is using a
photocopier itself to do the artwork, for
some reason they don't work well from a
laser printer, but once photocopied (dark
obviously) they have enough toner to work
quite well. :o)
-Roman



Tony Nixon wrote:

> I found a flat bed heat press at work the other day and it kindled my
> thoughts on using PCB designs from photo copiers or laser printers.

> I then used the backing paper from Celcast photo copier film which has a
> shiny surface from which the sticker peels off, but the back of it is
> "semi" shiny, and this was the side I used for the toner copy. It is
> just porous enough to hold the toner, without messing up the copier, but
> not as strongly as the roughed up PCB surface. This plastic backing film
> is also tolerant to the heat produced in copiers and laser printers.
>
> After pressure heating and cooling of the design, the PCB with it's
> rough surface wins the toner tug of war and about 99.5% adheres quite
> strongly to the PCB surface. A few touch ups with a Dalo pen and all is
> well.
>
> I've used lines down to 15mil and it seems quite ok.
>
> Overall, I was quite impressed and it will prove very useful in the
> future for proto boards and such.

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