Pres'n'peel is a special toner transfer paper for making PCB's. You can look at specs and also buy it here: http://www.techniks.com/ .It works just fine. I iron it for about 10 minutes (not 3 like they say). My experience is that temperature of the iron is critical - if it's too hot, the result isn't good, toner seems to 'melt'. Regards, Samo -----Original Message----- From: pic microcontroller discussion list [mailto:PICLIST@MITVMA.MIT.EDU]On Behalf Of Pic Dude Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2002 7:35 AM To: PICLIST@MITVMA.MIT.EDU Subject: Re: [EE]: success making a PCB Meant to ask -- what is the "Press N Peel blue stuff" you mentioned? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Cliff Griffin" To: Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2002 12:21 AM Subject: Re: [EE]: success making a PCB > That sounds like a great idea for aligning them, Neil. While I was at the > store, I bought a UV lamp, some boards and developer, but I wanted to try > the peel-off toner transfer paper first. I like it better than the other > stuff. I guess you can tell right away because the blue peels off and leaves > a clear sheet of plastic, and if it's not done just iron some more. > > My last boards I paid to have done--and it would have been cheaper this > time, too...but I wanted to have a finished board by Monday, and that just > wouldn't happen with a shop. > > Cliff > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Pic Dude" > To: > Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2002 10:21 PM > Subject: Re: [EE]: success making a PCB > > > Cliff, I didn't have any problems lining them up. I printed both sides > on one page and folded it carefully, one over the other while holding > it up to a light. That way I ensured that both sides were aligned. > Then I slipped the board in between. Someone else suggested > to staple the 2 sides back-to-back like this and make an "envelope". > > I'll add my PCB experiences as well. I first tried what seemed to be > the best solution for one-offs or prototypes: the toner-transfer system. > While Nick Vey's page showed how he does this with regular glossy > paper, I used actual toner-transfer paper. My results were decent, > though not great -- my board was small (approx 1.5" x 3.5") and > double-sided. On the first attempt, I had only partial coverage after > holding the iron on for about 2.5 to 3 minutes. So it all came off > and I tried again. One side came out perfect, but the other had a > few problem traces. These were touched up with with some > rub-on transfers and an etch-resist pen. However, after etching, > one of the "good" toner-transfer lines had peeled off, and I lost a > trace. > > My guess is that I need some practice. My next step is to try the > photo-resistive process, cause I found out that I can get a UV light > setup for PCB making for only about $32. > > Looking at commercial services too, even for one-offs. Of the > few I have checked, custompcb.com has the best deal for what I > want -- small PCB w/o holes. I don't care for soldermask, etc. At > least for now. > > Cheers, > -Neil. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Cliff Griffin" > To: > Sent: Saturday, March 09, 2002 9:45 PM > Subject: [EE]: success making a PCB > > > > Just wanted to share an experience I recently had making a PCB. I've made > > tiny ones before, but this one is 3x4", and the largest I've etched > myself. > > My first attempt was not successful, using the iron-on Toner Transfer > > System. First, one side wouldn't take the toner in a couple places. I > tried > > to iron down a patch over it, but that failed too. I managed to get a > trace > > with a marker, but found that white-out worked better. (Yes, I cleaned the > > board, so I don't know what was up with the toner.) After I etched it, I > > found I had misaligned the top and bottom. It was just bad enough so when > I > > drilled my holes, it knocked the pad off of the other side. > > > > For my second attempt, I decided to use a single sided board for > > simplicity--it only required seven jumpers, so I thought it would be fine > > for this project. I also decided to use the Press-N-Peel Blue stuff, > instead > > of the iron-on and soak off stuff. The PNP-Blue seems easier to use--I had > > no troubles with voids, and my .010" traces looks very good. > > > > While I used a tiny monokote iron, I'd bet that a full sized iron with a > > flat bottom would be easier. > > > > Cliff > > > > -- > > http://www.piclist.com hint: The list server can filter out subtopics > > (like ads or off topics) for you. See http://www.piclist.com/#topics > > > > > > > > -- > http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different > ways. See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details. > > -- > http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different > ways. See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details. > > > -- http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different ways. See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details. -- http://www.piclist.com hint: The PICList is archived three different ways. See http://www.piclist.com/#archives for details.