> > - To take out the toner when the pcb is finished it is much
> > easier to use
> > acetone (industrial or even of the kind the women use for removing the
> > paint from the nails : more expensive) than grinding the pcb.
>
> Acetone and similar hydrocarbon solvents will break down the pcb resin of
> many glass and paper composites. That surface will then invite
> contaminants,
> including whatever you washed off with it - a good reason why all the
> packaged transfer systems suggest scrubbing.

Never have had any problem (and when the transfer fails, I clean the board
with
acetone and let's start again !)

> > - To remove the paper it is better (according to my experience) to use
very
> > hot water instead of cold water. In a couple of minutes the paper
peels-off
> > without having to touch at it.
>
> I think the cold water is intended to "set" the toner by cooling
> it rapidly.
> But I'm sure hot water removes the paper better. I have done
> cold, then hot.

Toner melts at a temperature much higher than hot water. Hot water helps
the paper to peel-off. Never had any problem with hot water (hot water = 50
oC)

> The blue stuff seems to be pretty reliable also, but nothing beats
Advanced
> circuits doing them 2 up for $28 US with silk and mask with real through
> holes. Nobody on tis list can set up to do an iron on board for the
> equivalent cost in time.

Me yes. This means :
1) I am very fast :-), or
2) I am very bad paid :-(
Decide for yourself

> I figured the last iron on board I did, at about 1.25 x 2 cost me about
> the equivalent of $750 in billable time. Now I will only do this method
> when I have nothing else to do.

To get 750$ in billable time I must work for more than one week :-(

Note : iron method is the only one which allows me to start a board friday
evening and get it working sunday morning ! There is not a such fast service
in Internet.

Joan

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