This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0066_01C04AAE.6EED8A40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > to probe is fine, coz when I pressed the TV remote a few time on same > button, they look quite even. > > Then, I pressed my ir keypad, thing really a lot of deferrences. my > ir keypad output a burst of ~37khz pulse, and sometimes it output a > burst, but sometimes it output like 2 or 3 bursts. > > The scope output for my signals are really bad. But for TV remote, > the scope can display train of signals for TV remote signal. I think the problem is that the IR signal is too weak and the receiver may not be detecting it properly. If you are seeing a good signal at the PIC pin and you aren't seeing it at the receiver then you'll have to make the IR signal stronger. You need to do this anyway to get past 10cm Attached are suggestions for reasonably strong transmitters. You'll certainly get a few metres with these. The 555 can source or sink 200mA so the LED can be high side or low side Fig1 is a constant beam. Note that the power goes to the LED when the output of the 555 is low, so the pulse train is high more than low. This transmitter can be picked up 8 metres away by an IS1U60 if a matched 5mm LED is used, less if a 3mm Fig2a is a data-to-38kHz convertor. When Reset (pin4) goes low the output is a steady low, so you need to put the LED as a low side component. When Reset goes high, the oscillator is enabled and a "block" of 38kHz will be sent from the LED. Note that the pulse train is low more than high, the opposite of Fig1. To get more power you can drive a ZTX649 directly with the 200mA available from the 555 and use multiple LEDs with smaller resistors. The ZTX649 is rated at 1A, but there are other ZTXs rated for 3A. The main point about them is that they are fast current switches and give good strong pulses into the LEDs. In both circuits use a reservoir cap close to the LED/ resistor for best results. You will have to adjust the oscillator resistors to get the correct frequency and pulse width for your components. Tune it on the scope before attaching the LED to make sure you don't over-power the LED. You could use the waveform of your TV remote as a guide. Perhaps the best way might be to determine what range you want and increase the pulse width until the receiver sees it. Work out what the widest pulse width you can use is based on the power dissipation of the LED. Except you probably don't know what the LED you have is The IS1U60 "inverts" the signal it receives. When 38kHz is present the output is low. If your receiver does the same thing you'll need to invert the data bits you send otherwise a "1" will cause the receiver output to go low. Either that or invert the output of the receiver. The IS1U60 will not work properly if a 100uF cap is not soldered directly across its power supply pins. Without it the output is erratic, perhaps you have the same problem The HS38B might be a Honeywell device. I searched their site and it said it had found 4 matches, but I couldn't find a data sheet ------=_NextPart_000_0066_01C04AAE.6EED8A40 Content-Type: image/gif; name="irtx2.gif" Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64 Content-Disposition: attachment; filename="irtx2.gif" R0lGODlh2AG8APcAAAAAAP////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// 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