The stepper motor mount provided by Sherline will accomodate ANY type 23 stepper motor. Type 23 refers to the mounting arrangement only (mounting hole pattern and size, diameter of shaft). You are free to use whatever type of stepping motor as long as it uses a type 23 mounting arrangement. You are free to use single stepping, half stepping, microstepping, or any other drive style you want. The torque does not have to be all that high, since the screw drive of the xyz axis effectively "gears down" the velocity and increases the mechanical force. If you will be working metal, it is best to get a robust stepper. For working plastic you can get away with very lightweight steppers. It is best to get steppers that have the shaft coming out both ends, so that you can also affix the manual rotary handles supplied with the machine. Fr. Tom McGahee -----Original Message----- From: rad0 To: PICLIST@MITVMA.MIT.EDU Date: Thursday, May 18, 2000 9:04 PM Subject: Re: Openings in Project boxes [OT] >which stepper motor would you use for the sherline >mill or lathe?? Do stepper motors come set up to >step in different increments or is this what you are >doing when you build your pic controller?? > >Thanks in advance... > >If you have a specific stepper motor that you have used >on these particular machines, let me know. > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Brian Kraut" >To: >Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2000 9:09 PM >Subject: Re: Openings in Project boxes [OT] > > >> I have one and I use it more than my 30" table Rockwell Mill. >> >> Thomas McGahee wrote: >> >> > If you are REALLY interested in a great way to drill your own >> > PCBs and fabricate holes and slots and any shape desired in >> > panels and cases, you should take a few minutes and check out: >> > http://www.sherline.com >> > In particular, take a look at the Sherline vertical mill: >> > #5000-CNC (inch version): >> > Standard vertical mill w/ 10" base plus 3 stepper motor mounts >> > (Metric P/N 5100-CNC) >> > $750.00 >> > >> > This has the stepper motor mountings so you can put three >> > stepper motors on and have yourself a PIC numerically controlled >> > drill press/milling machine. A quick excerpt from the data available >> > at the website: >> > >> > ****************** Beginning of Sherline text. >> > >> > The main difference between a lathe and a mill is that on a lathe, the >work >> > turns and the cutting tool is stationary, while on a mill, the tool >turns and >> > the work is stationary. Because of the tremendous number of operations >that can >> > be performed on a vertical mill, it is commonly regarded as the most >important >> > machine in the modern machine shop... the work horse of the industry. At >first >> > glance a vertical mill looks similar to a drill press, but there are >some >> > important differences, such as a spindle that can take side-loads as >well as end >> > loads and an accurate method of moving the work in relation to the >spindle on >> > all three axes. The SHERLINE MILLING MACHINES can perform all of the >tasks and >> > operations that a large commercial machine can perform. Operations such >as >> > milling, fly cutting, precision drilling, and boring are all routine >tasks for >> > the SHERLINE. Because the tool turns rather than the work, much larger >parts may >> > be worked on in a mill (these parts need not be round). The work is >securely >> > held, thus extremely accurate hole patterns can be drilled or bored >using the >> > SHERLINE vertical mill. The longer "X-axis" throw also increases the >machine's >> > versatility over that of the Lathe with the vertical milling column >attachment. >> > It is an extremely rigid, accurate tool which accomplishes tough >machining jobs >> > with ease. >> > >> > Model 5000 (5100) >> > The Model 5000 (5100 metric) features a solid 10" (254mm) aluminum base, >> > precision machined dovetailed slides with adjustable gibs, permanently >> > lubricated spindle bearings, adjustable pre-load anti-backlash feed >screws on >> > "X" and "Y" axes, two 1-5/8" (41mm) laser engraved aluminum handwheels, >one >> > 2-1/2" (63mm) laser engraved handwheel with thrust bearings, and many >other >> > features found only on the best commercial machines. This machine along >with a >> > SHERLINE LATHE will enable you to complete almost any job in your own >machine >> > shop. >> > >> > *************** end of Sherline text >> > >> > These can be controlled both manually and by stepper motor. >> > For a one-off you would use manual control. If you have a lot of >identical >> > pieces to be done, then you make up a jig to hold the case/panel in >place and >> > produce a control file that tells the CNC machine how to make the shapes >you >> > want cut. You get identical results each time. >> > >> > Fr. Tom McGahee >> > >> > -----Original Message----- >> > From: Max Toole >> > To: PICLIST@MITVMA.MIT.EDU >> > Date: Saturday, May 13, 2000 11:58 AM >> > Subject: Re: Openings in Project boxes [OT] >> > >> > >In a message dated 5/12/00 11:57:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time, >> > >amberscreams@HOTMAIL.COM writes: >> > > >> > ><< I just wanted to say first that this is a great list. Everything is >> > > informative or interesting. Anyway on to my question. >> > > >> > > I have a product that goes into a Serpac box. I have a few round holes >for >> > > switches that are easy to drill. I also have two rectangular openings >for >> > > the 9V power supply and for a terminal block.. >> > > >> > > I am cutting the openings with a Dremel tool now but it doesn't look >real >> > > good and I can't seem to get any accuracy. What is everyone else doing >to >> > > make openings in off the shelf enclosures. >> > > >> > > Thanks for any advice >> > > >> > > Bill >> >> > >We use a small milling machine from Sherline. You can see them at >> > >http://www.sherline.com. Works well. >> > > >> > >Max