Yes! The models referred to below (5000/5100) both have the necessary mounts to allow you to attach stepper motors to all three axis. It is not at all difficult to control these things. There are even commercial software packages available that will give you all the control you need. I have done work on a unit that uses a Motorola 68HC11 to provide intelligent control of all three axis using a single high speed serial connection to a PC running Windows95/98. It is even EASIER to do the control using a PC running good old DOS!!! BUT!!! For the kind of simple control that you would need to route holes and rectangular cutouts and the like, you can easily do all the math stuff on the PC side. As to controlling the steppers, that is a piece of cake. I have done all of the following: 1) Use one parallel port. This has 12 latched outputs and 5 real-time inputs. 4 bits can directly control a stepper motor. You need to have the parallel port outputs drive transistors or FETs so you have sufficient drive current for the stepper motors. Use some of the inputs to provide limits switch information and homing information. You need homing information for each axis. You can leave out limit switch info if you want. If you DO implement limit switches they can all share a single input. 2) Use a single serial port. This requires a PIC or some other controller connected to the PC. The PIC must receive the serial data and then control each of the three axis stepper motors appropriately. It is useful to either use xon/xoff protocol or hardware handshaking to control the flow of data. The PIC UART transmitter should be used to inform the PC that the requested action has been performed. (Like an ACKnowledge). If limit switch info indicates that a limit has been reached, the PIC makes sure that appropriate action is taken, including informing the PC. 3) Use a commercially available multi-i/o board. You can get a cheap one for about $100. You can get them with many different configurations, but something like the 32 bit model, which is 4 8 bit ports is best. 4) Roll your own. Not all that hard. A few 8 bit latches, some glue logic, a simple address/port decoder and you are in business. ************* I cannot go into great detail about the hardware/software right now, but suffice it to say that a PIC 16C74 is more than sufficient to provide the necessary i/o and "intelligence". Fr. Tom McGahee -----Original Message----- From: rad0 To: PICLIST@MITVMA.MIT.EDU Date: Sunday, May 14, 2000 11:27 PM Subject: Re: Openings in Project boxes [OT] >can these Shermin machines be hooked up >so a computer and move the base of >the milling machine?? > >which model?? > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Brian Kraut" >To: >Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2000 9:09 PM >Subject: Re: Openings in Project boxes [OT] > > >> I have one and I use it more than my 30" table Rockwell Mill. >> >> Thomas McGahee wrote: >> >> > If you are REALLY interested in a great way to drill your own >> > PCBs and fabricate holes and slots and any shape desired in >> > panels and cases, you should take a few minutes and check out: >> > http://www.sherline.com >> > In particular, take a look at the Sherline vertical mill: >> > #5000-CNC (inch version): >> > Standard vertical mill w/ 10" base plus 3 stepper motor mounts >> > (Metric P/N 5100-CNC) >> > $750.00 >> > >> > This has the stepper motor mountings so you can put three >> > stepper motors on and have yourself a PIC numerically controlled >> > drill press/milling machine. A quick excerpt from the data available >> > at the website: >> > >> > ****************** Beginning of Sherline text. >> > >> > The main difference between a lathe and a mill is that on a lathe, the >work >> > turns and the cutting tool is stationary, while on a mill, the tool >turns and >> > the work is stationary. Because of the tremendous number of operations >that can >> > be performed on a vertical mill, it is commonly regarded as the most >important >> > machine in the modern machine shop... the work horse of the industry. At >first >> > glance a vertical mill looks similar to a drill press, but there are >some >> > important differences, such as a spindle that can take side-loads as >well as end >> > loads and an accurate method of moving the work in relation to the >spindle on >> > all three axes. The SHERLINE MILLING MACHINES can perform all of the >tasks and >> > operations that a large commercial machine can perform. Operations such >as >> > milling, fly cutting, precision drilling, and boring are all routine >tasks for >> > the SHERLINE. Because the tool turns rather than the work, much larger >parts may >> > be worked on in a mill (these parts need not be round). The work is >securely >> > held, thus extremely accurate hole patterns can be drilled or bored >using the >> > SHERLINE vertical mill. The longer "X-axis" throw also increases the >machine's >> > versatility over that of the Lathe with the vertical milling column >attachment. >> > It is an extremely rigid, accurate tool which accomplishes tough >machining jobs >> > with ease. >> > >> > Model 5000 (5100) >> > The Model 5000 (5100 metric) features a solid 10" (254mm) aluminum base, >> > precision machined dovetailed slides with adjustable gibs, permanently >> > lubricated spindle bearings, adjustable pre-load anti-backlash feed >screws on >> > "X" and "Y" axes, two 1-5/8" (41mm) laser engraved aluminum handwheels, >one >> > 2-1/2" (63mm) laser engraved handwheel with thrust bearings, and many >other >> > features found only on the best commercial machines. This machine along >with a >> > SHERLINE LATHE will enable you to complete almost any job in your own >machine >> > shop. >> > >> > *************** end of Sherline text >> > >> > These can be controlled both manually and by stepper motor. >> > For a one-off you would use manual control. If you have a lot of >identical >> > pieces to be done, then you make up a jig to hold the case/panel in >place and >> > produce a control file that tells the CNC machine how to make the shapes >you >> > want cut. You get identical results each time. >> > >> > Fr. Tom McGahee >> > >> > -----Original Message----- >> > From: Max Toole >> > To: PICLIST@MITVMA.MIT.EDU >> > Date: Saturday, May 13, 2000 11:58 AM >> > Subject: Re: Openings in Project boxes [OT] >> > >> > >In a message dated 5/12/00 11:57:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time, >> > >amberscreams@HOTMAIL.COM writes: >> > > >> > ><< I just wanted to say first that this is a great list. Everything is >> > > informative or interesting. Anyway on to my question. >> > > >> > > I have a product that goes into a Serpac box. I have a few round holes >for >> > > switches that are easy to drill. I also have two rectangular openings >for >> > > the 9V power supply and for a terminal block.. >> > > >> > > I am cutting the openings with a Dremel tool now but it doesn't look >real >> > > good and I can't seem to get any accuracy. What is everyone else doing >to >> > > make openings in off the shelf enclosures. >> > > >> > > Thanks for any advice >> > > >> > > Bill >> >> > >We use a small milling machine from Sherline. You can see them at >> > >http://www.sherline.com. Works well. >> > > >> > >Max