Did you see my post about this X,Y table controlled by printer port. URL http://freeandeasy.sourceforge.net/ What this school project does fits the bill for this type of job. They also control a lathe seen a TV showing the Table as it was Impressive. Regards Art ----- Original Message ----- From: Max Toole To: Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2000 2:10 AM Subject: Re: Openings in Project boxes [OT] : In a message dated 5/13/00 6:52:04 PM Eastern Daylight Time, plp@ACTCOM.CO.IL : writes: : : << Hi, : : If you need to make 10-20 then you can work by hand. For larger numbers, : contact a machine shop to make a break-out stencil for all non-round holes : (2-piece with screw). For really large numbers a machine+jig will be used : (with stencils). Depending on the plastic used and shape of the hole, it : is possible to use a 'hot' stencil. This 'stinks' but is is less expensive : than the real mechanical stencil. Holes made with hot stencils may need : deburring. There is also a way to make a partial hot stencil and then : break out the outlined port. This requires a two-sided jig for the stencil : and at least a hand press, but it is easy to set up (low tooling cost). : The greatest advantage is that the part to be removed does not clog the : machine so productivity is high. Stencils for most standard connectors are : available ready made, f.ex. from Allied and Mouser I think. Figure $80 per : ready made stencil (not including the press). Stencils with simple shapes : (square, rectangle) are relatively cheap from a machine shop. : : For handwork in ones, a drill and a jeweller's saw is all you really need. : For more gross work you can use needle files to work the round holes into : required shapes. Just practice until you get good (perhaps using scrap : boxes). I use the hand drill and jeweller's saw for ones. The jeweller's : saw cuts so accurately and finely in plastic and aluminium that you can't : really tell whether the part is coming from a factory CNC line or from a : prototype lab. It helps to span the blade short for precision work. : : There is an accessory for the Dremel tool that allows you to do some more : accurate work. It uses a manual XY table under a standard drill press : holding the tool. You will need to make a wooden jig to hold the box in : the xy table. If you already have the drill press, look for the *matching* : (beware !) XY table in a Dremel catalog. : : hope this helps, : : Peter : : >I just wanted to say first that this is a great list. Everything is : >informative or interesting. Anyway on to my question. : > : >I have a product that goes into a Serpac box. I have a few round holes for : >switches that are easy to drill. I also have two rectangular openings for : >the 9V power supply and for a terminal block.. : > : >I am cutting the openings with a Dremel tool now but it doesn't look real : >good and I can't seem to get any accuracy. What is everyone else doing to : >make openings in off the shelf enclosures. : > : >Thanks for any advice : > : >Bill : : >> : Thanks Peter, : I learned a good bit from what you said here. I would like to mention, : however, that he may also want to consider having Serpac mill the cutouts. I : have 100 of their A-27 cases on order where they are milling the cutouts and : they are quite reasonable and, typically, have about 3 week turnaround time. : : Maybe Bill needs to tell us what kind of quantity he is talking about. : : Hope this helps and thanks for all the info. : : Max