It's the fumes. After thinner does it's thing, stuff still have to be
removed with paper towel. Maybe I was seeing things due to fumes, too. I
got a quart can of laquer thinner from hardware store for less than
$5.00 and this will last me many thousands of boards.

Fumes do wonders for brain cells, too (I'd rather kill them with
alcohol). Is there any other way to remove PnP besides this? Scrubbing
with copper wool isn't an option.

Bob Blick wrote:
>
> I also use the blue, it works the best for me. I've tried all the other
> home methods.
>
> Lacquer thinner takes it right off. or maybe the fumes just make it seem
> like it takes no time :-) I don't recall...
>
> Cheers,
> Bob
>
> >>>      If you have a laser printer and want a quick and easy etching
> >resist method, contact Techniks, Inc. in Ringoes, NJ.
> ><www.techniks.com>www.techniks.com (908-788-8249)<www.techniks.com>
> >>>
> >>>      We have been using their PnP-Blue Pres and Peal iron on printed
> >circuit board transfer film for a couple of years and have have found it to
> >be the best method so far (and we have tried a lot of methods ) This is an
> >iron on method where you print the board to their transfer film and iron
> >the film onto the surface of the PC board using an ordinary household iron
> >(if your wife won't let you use 'her' iron you can buy one at the local
> >thrift store for about $5). The result is 2 layers of resist. The film
> >layer and the toner layer. The combination provides a very high degree of
> >resist which will work very well with fine traces and small holes. The
> >hardest part of the whole process is cleaning the toner off the board after
> >it has been etched (which confirms the integrity of the toner as an etchant
> >resist).
> >>>