I think a triac is about the most efficient way of handling the problem (unless you want to go to an electromechanical relay). The voltage drop across the triac would be about 1.5 volts, so multiply that by the current to get dissipation in watts. Multiply the dissipation by your heat sink's thermal resistance to ambient (degrees C/watt) to get temperature rise above ambient. For typical drive circuits for the triac, see the datasheet on the MOC3020 or similar opto couplers. Also, for simplicity, you can just buy an opto coupled solid state relay. The manufacturer of the SSR has solved all the drive and snubber problems for you. You can drive the SSR directly from a PIC. Harold On Fri, 14 May 1999 08:16:16 -0400 Jason Wolfson writes: >Today I'm trying to control a 1800W electric heater with a PIC. >About 16A @ 110VAC, I was thinking of using a 25A Triac and >optocoupler/driver. >My question is how hot will the Triac get? is there a better way? >cheaper? >thanks > >Jason >P.S. >I've archived all the PID discussions for the next step of this >project..... > ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]