Agreed, I'll add that wirewrap wire works wonders here, definitely.
Also, I recommend eutectic (63/37) solder with a good soldering iron,
this can save your PC board (I've done TOO MUCH reworking of studio
audio equipment, in the past;  if you want to practice PCB re-working,
get into fixing 24-track audio mixing studio and Radio station tape
recorders, they scrape mask off traces and solder a fine wire or even a
small braid onto a sick PC board on those, to replace vaporized traces,
all the time, that and replace blown switching jFET's quite regularly
<G>)

  Watch your flux after working (pure isopropyl can help clean it up),
on some high impedance circuits it'll mess you up badly if you leave it
on the PCB.  I used to use an "Exacto" type knife, found a scalpel works
somewhat better for my somewhat huge hands, for PCB reworking.

  Much to be said for superglue (Beta, gel type especially) and
superglue catalyst, you can just add WW wire as extra traces where you
want them.  Usually engineers spec/use green/blue wires for "Production
approved" changes, and red/yellow as they stand out more for testing
"hacks" or special changes, to make them more obvious.  Don't overdo the
catalyst <G>  You'll "popcorn" the superglue (it sets so fast thus gets
so hot, that it boils and puffs up.)

  Mark

Harrison Cooper wrote:
>
> standard method we use is a small guage wire, soldered from the pad to
> pad...sometimes there is no choice.  When we have a change to a design, and
> don't have time to redo the board, there isn't much choice in adding
> wires...
>
> now..if you have a soldermask, you might be able to scrape some of it off
> the trace and run a wire down the via and solder to both sides.