For those who wish to build their own UV eraser I offer the
following details regarding a UV eraser that I built and have
used successfully for several years to erase PICs and EPROMS.

LAMP:
Westinghouse G8T5 Ultraviolet lamp
(Sold as a germicidal lamp)

LAMP SOCKETS (2):
Standard miniature two pin fluorescent lamp socket

BALLAST:
Universal MFG Corp Paterson, NJ
6-8 watt Ballast
118V 60Hz .158A
Catalog # 549

START SWITCH:
Standard F.L.S. (Fluorescent Lamp Switch) rated at 40 watts.
This eliminates the need for a starter.
You push it for a few seconds to bring the filaments up
and then release to run. If desired, you can instead
use a lamp starter module rated from 10-20 watts and a
regular on/off switch.

CASE:
12.25" x 4" x 4" (internal dimensions)
Plastic cassette tape storage box with plastic cover.

The Ballast mounts on the inside bottom of the case,
and the lamp sockets mount about an inch below the
top edge of the case, so that the UV lamp will be
positioned right down the middle of the case.

The 12" length of the UV tube allows me to erase several
PICs or EPROMS at the same time. As with all UV lamps,
avoid looking at the lamp while it is operating.

My particular
unit is built with all the parts mounted inside the box. The
box is turned upside-down and placed on top of what would
usually be the cover. The PICs or EPROMS are lined up
down the middle of the cover, the box is placed into the
cover (which is also upside down), and then the unit is
turned on. Erasure takes only a couple of minutes. You can
speed up erasure time by placing the chip erasure window
even closer to the UV lamp. I usually use pieces of that
black or pink anti-static carrier foam to hold the chips
where I want them to be.

Chips to be erased should not
be too near the ends of the lamp, as UV output there is
slightly less than that found along the rest of the lamp.

Hope this helps.
Fr. Tom McGahee