Thanx to everybody that has responded.  I guess I've got a few questions to
answer.

The first is how the wiring is done, hopefully, you'll get an idea from this
block diagram:

       o--------------------o------------------o o--------------o-- + 5 Volts
       |                    |                  | |              |
       _   +               ---                 ---             ---
      | |                 |   | 2x Motor &    |   | LT1111    |   | PIC &
       -   2x AA Cells    o-O-o "H" Bridge    |   | Step-Up   |   | I/R Rx'rs
      | |                 |   | Switches       ---             ---
       -   -               ---                  |               |
       |                    |                   |               |
       o--------------------o-------------------o---------------o-- - Common

I'm not sure about Induced EMF on the - Common Line, I've made it as simple
and common as I could (the same for the Positive Voltage Rails).  As well,
there is a 10 uF cap between +3V Gnd and a 47 uF cap between +5V and Gnd (as
specified in the Linear Tech Datasheet).  I'm using a vero-board for the
soldered prototypes (where I've taken all the measurements from), so the
Power Rails are literally just that.

The Tamiya Tracked Vehicle is not one of their R/C kits.  It's actually a
kit that Tamiya puts out for people to develop their own models.  It
consists of a rubber track segments (not individual links) that can be put
together to get different track lengths, a variety of different sproketed
and smooth wheels, an electric motor and a gearbox.  The purpose is to allow
somebody to create a simple tracked vehicle with one motor driving two
treads.  The kit itself contains a piece of hardwood (oak, I think) for
mounting the motor, wheel axels on as well as a battery block and control.
For this project, I have taken the motor and gearbox out of one kit and put
it on the other to provide individual control and power on both tracks.  Two
AA Alkaline cells can easily drive the two tracks (although I'm not too sure
of the life expectancy) - I was planning on using NiCads because of their
higher current capabilities and the fact that they can be recharged.  Other
than the drag the gearbox and the tracks put on the motor (resulting in the
higher operating current), it is working very well.  The cost of each kit
was $8 (Canadian), so they're pretty inexpensive to play with.

Yesterday at a surplus store, I bought some 2N3820s and 2N3819s and was told
that they were "P-Channel" and "N-Channel" FETs, respectively.  Does anybody
have any information on these?  My handy ECG catalog indicates that the
2N3819 is a N-Channel FET, but it works more like a PNP Transistor
(including a measured HFE of 650) it gets very hot unless I attach a
resistor (I'm using a 220 Ohm) to the "gate".  As for the 2N3820, I'm not
getting any response other than the LED (which I am using to check for
On/Off) is on all the time.  I'm really confused by this because I can go
back and check these devices operation wiht that of the 2N7000, and the
latter device works exactly as I expect.

My next move is to order some known good parts from Digi-Key and work from
there.

More news as it happens,

Myke

Do you ever feel like an XT Clone caught in the Pentium Pro Zone?